Ever since I raved on about the Pita Cafe in Oak Park, I've been getting tips on even more superlative Middle Eastern eateries around town. Best yet: the remarkable New Yasmeen Bakery (13900 W. Warren, four blocks west of Schaefer, Dearborn, 582-6035). Which, while not a full-scale restaurant, deserves our attention nonetheless.

         Late last year, owner Mohamad Siblini moved his 6-year-old operation two blocks west, nearly doubling its size and output in the process. He added a long deli counter and dozen or so tables, and began serving up some heroic food on the cheap.

         Listen to this: the best taboulee I've had in memory, $2.95 a pound, and ditto the hummus, both on price and taste. Large meat or spinach pies, 75 cents each. Small cheese, spinach or tomato-sauced meat pies, a measly $4 a dozen. The delicate cigar-shaped finger food, fried kibbee, $7 a dozen. Packages of extra-thin pita, still warm to the touch, 70 cents for 10 loaves. And foot-wide zesty zatar - flat bread inlaid with thyme, sesame seeds and sumac, then drizzled with oil and baked to order - a stunning 60 cents apiece.

         Siblini and his assistant, brother Hussein, crank out 3,000 packages of bread a day at the new New Yasmeen. Which tells you something about quality and word of mouth. Eat in, or pack it all up for one divine picnic for under $10.